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Linden Outdoor Power Equipment
531 N State St
Lindon, UT 84042
801-810-4779
(call or text)

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Linden Outdoor Power Equipment
531 N State St
Lindon, UT 84042
801-810-4779 (call or text)

About Me

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We are Utah County's preferred small engine repair center. We carry the full line of Husqvarna and Exmark equipment as well as the Ariens snow blowers. We also service all other brands of equipment.

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  • We carry a full line up of Husqvarna's industry leading lawn & garden equipment.

  • Get up to a 4 Year warranty on all 2-stroke Husqvarna equipment.

  • Husqvarna Crown Commitment -- 7 Day Money-Back Guarantee

  • Husqvarna Arborist Fleet Program.

  • We repair all makes & models of lawn & garden equipment.

  • Utah County's preferred Exmark dealer.

  • Your local nursery and farm supply store all in one place.

Tuesday, December 13, 2016

Why Won't My Lawn Mower Start?

Posted by Linden Outdoor Power Equipment On 18:17
"But we just had our carburetor cleaned last year? Why do we need to do it again this year?"
This is one of the most common questions we hear in our repair shop. And it's one of the biggest frustrations from our customers. We recognize this frustration and hope to help others understand the problem better. In this post we hope to shed the light on the issue.

The problem is caused by the ethanol that is found in most fuels today, which causes something called Phase Separation.

Whether you use gasoline as a fleet operator or for your family car, classic car, boat, personal water-craft, motorcycle, snowmobile, ATV, RV, lawnmower, weed-whacker, generator, or any of the thousands of other types of equipment that use gasoline engines; you are being affected by Ethanol in your fuel.

Separation of the water and the fuel.
Phase Separation describes what happens to gasoline containing Ethanol when water is present. When gasoline containing even small amounts of Ethanol comes in contact with water, either liquid or in the form of humidity; the Ethanol and water will Phase Separate, actually coming out of solution and forming two or three distinct layers in the tank.

Phase Separation is also temperature dependent. For example, E-10 can hold approximately .05% water at 60°F. To better understand the amount of water that we are talking about, picture 1 gallon of E-10 at 60°F. This gallon will hold approximately 3.8 teaspoons of water. However if the temperature drops to 20°F it can only hold about 2.8 teaspoons of water.

Phase Separation can happen in an underground or an above ground storage tank, a vehicle tank, a boat tank, in any type of equipment tank, and even in the gas can in your garage.

When this happens, you can have serious and even catastrophic engine problems, without warning.

When this Phase Separation occurs you will have an upper layer of gasoline with a milky layer of Ethanol and Water below it, and then in many cases a third layer of just water at the bottom.

If this happens and you try to start the engine you can have one or more of the following problems. If your fuel tank pick-up tube is in the water layer, most likely the engine will fail to start. If the engine is running and suddenly draws water you can have damage from thermal shock or hydro-lock. If the pick-up tube draws the Ethanol-Water mixture or just Ethanol you can have problems where the engine will operate in an extreme lean condition, which can cause significant damage or even catastrophic failure. If the pick-up tube draws the gasoline, it will operate very poorly due to lower octane that is the result of no longer having Ethanol in the fuel.

Gasoline containing Ethanol provides further challenges and dangers for marine operators (Boaters) and other users of seasonal equipment such as motorcycles, personal water-craft, snowmobiles, ATV's, RV's, yard maintenance, generators, and other equipment.

Ethanol is a strong, aggressive solvent and will cause problems with rubber hoses, o-rings, seals, and gaskets. These problems are worse during extended storage when significant deterioration will take place. Hoses will delaminate, o-rings will soften and break down, and fuel system components made from certain types of plastics will either soften or become hard and brittle, eventually failing. Fuel system components made from brass, copper, aluminum will oxidize to the point of failure.

Two-Cycle engines have a special problem with Ethanol blended fuels. Two-Cycle engines function because the oil added to the fuel bonds to the engines metal surfaces and provides barrier lubrication to all the parts requiring lubrication. When Ethanol is added to the gasoline, it displaces the oil and forms a primary bond with the metal surfaces. This bond provides virtually no lubrication and can result in significantly increased wear and even catastrophic failure in a very short amount of time.

Ethanol has less energy (as measured in Btu's - British Thermal Units) per gallon than does regular unleaded gasoline. This means that the more Ethanol found in fuel the worse your fuel economy will be. You use more gallons of fuel containing Ethanol to go fewer miles.

This poor fuel economy is made worse by other EPA and State requirements for fuels to change seasonally. Until very recently we have used what is known as "Conventional" gasoline (CVG) in the winter and "Reformulated" gasoline (RFG) in the summer. The theory is that the lower volatility of RFG will reduce the formation of green house gases. However RFG has lower Btu's per gallon. RFG together with Ethanol results in significant mileage penalty. My own vehicle drops about 2 miles per gallon or about 9% when using RFG with Ethanol.

For many years the refining industry used a chemical MTBE to meet the oxygenate requirements set forth by the EPA. Generally refiners used 15% MTBE and 85% gasoline. However MTBE has now been virtually eliminated in the US due to its carcinogenic compounds and the huge potential problems caused by its pollution of as much as 75% of the ground water in the US and Canada.

This has left Ethanol as the primary additive to meet Federal and State oxygenate mandates.

Further the federal government currently subsidizes Ethanol with a $.51 per gallon tax credit that goes to refiners or blenders. With E-10 this provides those refiners and or blenders with a $.51 per gallon subsidy on every gallon of gasoline that they sell.

A new carburetor and one showing the gum
and varnish built up because of the ethanol.
One more concern with Ethanol and RFG or Ethanol and CVG is that Ethanol when mixed with water; they readily form Gums in the fuel system much quicker that gasoline without Ethanol. These Gums coat fuel system components including filters, carburetors, injectors, throttle plates; and will then form varnish and carbon deposits in the intake, on valves, and in the combustion chamber. These deposits can coat sensors and plug catalytic converters.

The good news is that we now have products available to prevent and control Phase Separation and that we can dramatically reduce or eliminate most of the problems caused by the Ethanol in the gasoline.

For seasonal vehicles and equipment, e.g. boats, personal water-craft, motorcycles, classic cars, ATV's, RV's, lawn and garden equipment, gasoline powered generators, and so on, we recommend that you try to use conventional gasoline without Ethanol whenever possible and particularly prior to storage.

In ALL  Two-Cycle gasoline engines where there is any possibility that you are using gasoline containing Ethanol we strongly suggest using a full synthetic two-cycle oil in the gas.


Information from this post was taken from the following web page.
http://www.lcbamarketing.com/phase_separation_in_ethanol_blen.htm

Wednesday, May 11, 2016

HUSQVARNA AUTOMOWER®

Posted by Linden Outdoor Power Equipment On 22:06

Husqvarna Automower®


We are Utah's Husqvarna Automower® dealer. If you love your gadgets then you need to come check out our robotic lawn mower.  We have one currently installed here at our business. Come take a look at how it cuts.


Thursday, January 29, 2015

Effects of Ethanol in fuel

Posted by Linden Outdoor Power Equipment On 10:34

Check out this video on the effects of Ethanol in today's fuel.




Wednesday, October 22, 2014

How to Winterize Your Lawn & Garden Equipment

Posted by Linden Outdoor Power Equipment On 22:09
As winter approaches the end of the mowing season is also drawing near. It's time to start thinking of what you're going to do with your yard equipment for the winter.

I know most of us will most likely just push our mower up against the house or shed, leaving the tank half full of gas, and the mower covered in grass clippings. 

Can we suggest another option? By performing a few simple steps you can increase the life of your equipment and guarantee it will start for us next year. 

Winterizing your yard equipment

Clean up

Begin with a good cleaning of the equipment. As we use our equipment through out the summer we undoubtedly will get a build up of grass and dirt on different parts of the equipment. The most common area to get this build up on a lawn mower is on the under side of the deck. As you mow during the season grass clippings tend to cling to the deck and tend to build up rather thick. These grass clippings hold quite a bit of moisture and if left unattended can cause rust to form on the deck. This will greatly decrease the life of your mower. 

An easy way to clean the grime off your equipment is to use high pressured water. You can do this with a pressure washer or your hose with a high pressure nozzle attached. It is also a good idea to spray a water displacement chemical (WD-40) on the underside of the deck and other areas where rust is prone to form. This will help keep it dry and prevent rust from forming.

With your 2 stroke equipment make sure to clean around the fins that make up the engine. 2 stroke engines rely on air flow around the engine to help keep them cool. If debris is allowed to build up in and around these fins the engine may not be able to cool itself sufficiently and can cause damage to the engine.

Change Oil

Before draining the oil out of the engine check the oil level in the engine. If the level is okay start the engine and let it warm up for a couple of minutes. The warm oil will drain from the engine easier. Most lawn mowers will not have an actual drain plug. To drain the oil from the engine you will need to tip the mower on it's side (oil fill tube down) and drain the oil out of the fill tube. Once the oil has finished draining tip the mower back up and refill with the proper amount and weight of oil. 

 

 Gasoline Preparation

Out of all the items we list in this article this is the most critical to guarantee your equipment will start next season. If you don't do any of the other steps make sure you do this one.

With the ethanol in today's fuel it should not be stored for more than 30 days without treatment. This is true for fuel in your gas cans as well as fuel left in your equipment's fuel tank. There are a few different suggestions on how to store your engine in a way that will guarantee it to start next spring. 
One suggestion is to store your engine dry. The best way to do this is to run the engine until it is runs out of gas. Next, pour a little bit of gasoline that has been treated with a fuel stabilizer. Start the engine again and let it run until the engine dies again. With this scenario you do not want to leave any fuel in the engine or it can turn in to gummy deposits that can clog the carburetor jets.

Another suggestion for storing your engine is to fill the tank with a fuel that does not have ethanol in it. There are only certain gas stations that carry this fuel so you may have to search for it. A fuel that does not have ethanol in it will not degrade like fuel that contains ethanol. By leaving the tank full it does not allow open space for condensation to build up.

This same process can be done on your 2 stroke engines as well. Remember to use the correct gas to oil mix for your equipment.

Now would also be a good time to inspect your fuel lines. Besides causing fuel to degrade so quickly ethanol also weakens rubber and plastic. Over time the ethanol can cause the fuel lines to become brittle and break. Replace the fuel lines if necessary.

Some pieces of equipment also come equipped with a fuel filter. It's a good idea to replace the fuel filter on a regular basis.

Change the Spark Plug

Remove the spark plug from the cylinder head and replace it with the correct plug for your engine. Refer to your engine owners manual for this information.

Change the Air Filter

Remove and replace the air filter. Again your owners manual can provide you with the correct part information. A clean air filter can go a long way in extending the life or your equipment. 

Sharpen the Blade

Sharp blades means a healthier lawn. Dull blades don't cut the grass but instead break off the tips. Broken tips turn brown and your lawn will not look as healthy. After removing the blade inspect the cutting edge. If there are too many nicks taken out of the blade it is easier to just replace the blade. If the cutting blade is still in relatively good condition then it can be sharpened. After sharpening the blade it's a good idea to spray the cutting edges of the blade with WD-40. This will prevent rusting. 

Inspect & Replace

The last thing we recommend you do before storing your equipment is to look over your machine and look for any missing or broken pieces. Use the down time of winter to replace those pieces. 

Finalizing

If your equipment is equipped with a battery you should remove the battery and store it a place away from the cold temperatures. It's also a good idea to use a battery tender to maintain the charge. A battery tender will not over charge your battery. It turns off when the battery is fully charged.

You should also store your mower in an area that is dry and where it can be protected from the rain and snow.

* By following these few steps you can guarantee your equipment to start next season and will prolong the life of your mower.


Saturday, October 18, 2014

Husqvarna vs Stihl

Posted by Linden Outdoor Power Equipment On 12:02

Here is a comparison between the 125B Husqvarna handheld leaf blower and the Stihl 56 C-E handheld leaf blower. The Husqvarna has considerably more air power and is cheaper in price.




Sunday, October 5, 2014

Fall Blower Sale

Posted by Linden Outdoor Power Equipment On 11:23 No comments

Friday, January 24, 2014

T540 XP Chainsaw

Posted by Linden Outdoor Power Equipment On 17:25


Husqvarna T540 XP® is designed for the high-end top handle saw segment, targeting professional customers like full pro arborists, landscapers, garden contractors & utility services who need excellent performance in combination with the best ergonomics.


AutoTune
AutoTune gives optimal engine performance throughout automatic engine setting. No time spent on carburetor adjustments. It compensates for different fuels, altitude, humidity, temperature and clogged air filter.

37.7 cc, 2.4 hp, 12"-16", 8.16 lbs
from

$ 639.95

Manufacturer's Suggested Retail Price*

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